Vorab Glarner north face 5.3 E4 1400m

I saw this face for the first time when I ve ran between Sargans and Linthal. Without snow I did found the top section …. rocky. Then in winters and last spring the lines were easier to see but still the top stayed a mystery. This winter is a snow record for Glarus so I was thinking it could be great to give a visit, a least take a look. From the beginning I totally left the idea to start from the top, just a long mixte extra exposed rampe. I Skied 50m direction west on the flat shoulder then the start looks super mega steep but definitely possible.

After 150m of steep with good pack powder I had to do a short 10m rappel (yellow sling on a becquet, right). After the short rappel the slope becomes a bit softer, a short dry ski moment head me to the big rampe, then the slope is 40 degree steep maximum and I can make big turn.

A little route mistake offer me 100m extra climb back to cross the face and ski a portion of 100m steep icy snow/grass.

Once out of the main difficulties I have to find the exit and don’t lose myself in an ice fall.

I did point a little forest I knew it will head me down to Elm. At low part of the forest is a nice little house, would be perfect after a steep ski day!

What a nice day in this big face. Last year it took me and Adelin hours to make it walking and skinning up from Flims, this year I did really enjoyed the cable car.


Mürtschenstock (Fulen) couloir Est 5.2 E3 500m

Last year in same time the couloir looked something really different.

This winter I am new resident in Argovie and Glarus is beating snowfall records, absolutely unfair! The trick when you leave in a flat region is to wake up early and to get a good book for the train. Today I share my steep adventure with my friend Michal. Morning wake up at 5am is not the easiest ever but I am happy to go back to the mountains. We start a little bit higher than the sea of clouds, a great felling to see the sun after a week in the clouds. we fast leave the 700m skin up and begin to the the couloir, it has nothing to compare with last year, except the start the rest looks full of snow. I am a bit scarred about the side wall where snow can go down but it’s cold and it seams it has been down already.

The rimaye pass easy and we pass easy the little ice fall.

Then we easy climb up straight, the view is just awesome.


Then the couloir head up on a nice ramp on the right, until the summit ridge. I decide to stay few meters on the side of the top corniche. The ramp is definitely the most impressive and steep section, the view on the lake is just great.




Then straight down into the couloir, we use the side way too to get good snow.


Little unclimbed section of 3 meters for the ice fall and we arrive at the bottom of the couloir. What a nice place to ski, with some great landscape.

Photo are courtesy of Michal.

Schiesshorn Arosa west face. 700m 5.1/5.2 E3

After those storms and really complex snow situation I am happy to finally ski this route.

Never extrem, the top and low sections allow big turn with good snow, the route stays exposed in the middle with smaller turn and some « straight and stops ». The most difficult in this route is to know where you are and follow this system of lateral ramps. The first 50m are bit steep but nothing crazy.

Then the big top section is flat and allow to let it go when snow is good. The last little traverse could have some sharks.

Then I didn’t followed the nice left couloir lead nowhere but the little ramp goes to the mid mixt section.

I ve made here a small rappel (equiped on left with one blade and a sling)and a little climbing traverse. Ski is straight and good until a mixte section I did unclimbed.  Then it skis easy until a last small traverse to reach the last couloir in splashy snow. After this happiness and joy in the face came the cross-country kilometer and the walk back to Arosa. To regret the wilderness nothing better than a full train, but my mind is to my princess and my time in mountain. After few infos and request to local guides it seams my scott superguide 95 could be the first Skis into this route, but always hard to be sure.

Männliflue NW face 500m 5.3 E4




I saw this impressive face from Ballon my love offered me for my birthday 3 years ago. Yet leaving in Argovie the way to reach Grimmialp with public transport becomes a bit shorter. Friday was Christmas in Givisiez, my Scott and Outdoor Research material were ready for me. The super Scott team made ready my new super guide and Punisher with my Plum bindings, so then I should tested it quick!


Trip to Berner is always a matter of WTF they said!!!


I was thinking with this exceptional winter start the face would have been over white but I was wrong, maybe the rain did a bit washed the face. I took my time during the uphill to observe the face. I climbed on the normal NW face way wich is a nice 40°max slopes goes quick to the top.


From top the view is just amazing. I am the lucky one up there, and I am alone! I leave the society and its worries under. I can’t enter directly to face from the top, so I make a 20m round around the top section and then travers the face to come in the direct couloir. The view is impressively steep, I see the bottom easy. For surprise my new scoot super guide dont meet any rocks, it’s steep with many different kind of snow but I don’t have to face much jump or annoying mixt section.




On the low part I make a little 5m rappel cause I am really not sure about a jump, I discovered then that the reception was full of rock. The last traverse is quite impressive and the ramp let me do some big turn. From bottom the line looks quite impressive, I couldn’t expect most interesting start of winter and Christmas present!

It doesn’t seems people skied this face but always hard to say, even after asking locals.

Silberplatten west couloir. 350m E2 4.3

Not many times in my skier career I used to begin a winter so well. St Gallen is the land of my love, my Princess and it remembers me a good moments on the Säntis north face. Before some deserved warm holidays in Madeira I decide to try a first ski attempt with my mate Adelin. After some reflection we decide that the Säntis could be a cool place not so far, with the little luxe to be deserved by a jodeling cable car. All the Scherrers familly welcomed us as family member and helped us to make the idea so easy to realized. Saturday after an awesome fighter breakfast we head up to Shwagalp. At the moment to take the cable care ticket the woman in charges of fear told us ski was for sure not so great right now and we probably we would be fast in trouble…. like always in East Switzerland when you get off the beaten way.



The landscape is unreal, we float on the sea of cloud.


We follow the ridge until the pass before The Silberplatten in a nice sunny moment. Adelin find some lunch if we get stock this night.

Then we easily join the west couloir. The two first turns are bit focused cause of the icy snow then it’s super packed powder snow, we just bein the moment. The last 50m are bit crunchy but nothing bad then back to the road.




During all this trip ours skis didn’t met any rocks, Unreal first tour of winter!! All this trip would have been impossible without Nati and her mega cute family and for sure my mate Adelin.

Vorab Glarner (3018m) face Sud ouest. 1100m 5.1 E4

Clip Vorab .
J’avais vu cette jolie face en montant au Hausstock il y a deux semaines avec Adelin. Après le nouvel épisode neigeux et très local de la semaine passée Adelin est ultra motivé pour une sortie ski, moi j’ai déjà un peu la tête dans mon voyage au Japon avec mon amoureuse. Les remontées mécanique de Laax viennent de fermer, une approche qui peut se résumer à une remontée en tire-fesses se transforme en bavante de 2000m D+ en faut plat. Tant pis le paysage est grandiose et on entretient nos coups de soleils. Nous avons trouvé quelques informations sur les gens qui remonte en été cette voie, mais rien sur une probable descente, on se demande bien pourquoi, spécialement avec la proximité des remontées.

Le départ se fait dans un grand bowl en faut plat descendant puis les pentes s’inclinent un peu mais se n’est jamais bien raide.


On arrive alors au dessus de la barre qui nous intriguait. En regardant les contres pentes sud qui purgent tout ce qu’elles peuvent nous optons pour un petit système de dalles plaquées qui se skie tranquillement.


Un petit rappel d’une dizaine de mètres, qu’Adelin équipe sur goujon, nous amène à un étroit couloir qui rejoins la voie prévue.


Nous arrivons alors dans les petites barres médianes. Une petite désescalade de 4m les pieds dans l’eau et l’affaire est réglée. Un joli couloir malheureusement un peu ravagé par endroits nous amène à la longue rampe de sortie, la Ober Saumen.


Ici grosse surprise nous découvrons une petite cahute avec un panneau solaire, peut être un repère de chasseurs?!

Le couloir qui coupe la rampe en deux mais ne peut se descendre à ski nous oblige a vite remettre les crampons, l’exposition aux coulée venant des pentes quelques 500m au dessus est maximales, nous traversons au plus vite et quelques grosses avalanche passent pas bien loin. La traversée fini la tension retombe et nous regardons effrayé de monstres avalanches passant sur nos traces, c’était « perfect timing ».

Cette fois nous avons de la neige jusqu’au camp militaire et la marche de jusqu’a Alm se fait vite mais avec une soif extreme. Cette face est vraiment jolie, le paysage est grandiose mais la rampe terminale rend la chose un peu aléatoire, dommage car cela pourrait être vraiment une classique depuis les remontées de Laax.

Un grand merci ä Adelin pour la top sortie. Maintenant en route pour le japon avec Nati.

Hausstock face nord direct 5.2 E3 800m

C’était notre plan original de vendredi, mais l’armée en avait décidé autrement. Le week end l’armée prend congé de ses jeux de guerre donc place au ski. Nous partons de la caserne à 6h. Apres une petite demie heure nous pouvons mettre les skis.

En quatre heures et demie nous sommes au sommet. La montée par la voie normale est magnifique, les vues sur les Grisons sont splendides. Le dernier petit bout de raide avant d’arriver est exposé sud et nous sommes heureux de ne pas le passer plus tard.


On bascule alors dans la face nord, qui est presque plus NE. Au départ nous allons chercher les panneaux en NE pour profiter de la neige dégelée en surface. Au lieu de traverser comme cela se fait nous optons pour une ligne plus direct à travers un petit rétrécissement, quelques bouts de dalle et de la glace affleure. Puis la suite deviens plus ouverte mais la neige à alors bien ramollit.


Arrivé à l’éperon de sortie, il faut engager trois virage dans une soupe inconstante au dessus d’un bout de barre puis une petite désescalade pour rejoindre la rampe de sortie. 

Une très jolie course, le plan original était de remonter dans la face mais je dois dire qu’avec autant de neige cela n’aurait pas été aisé, de plus la face prend le soleil tôt donc on a préféré l’aborder par le haut. Une top sortie avec un Adelin en pleine forme.