Vorab Glarner north face 5.3 E4 1400m

I saw this face for the first time when I ve ran between Sargans and Linthal. Without snow I did found the top section …. rocky. Then in winters and last spring the lines were easier to see but still the top stayed a mystery. This winter is a snow record for Glarus so I was thinking it could be great to give a visit, a least take a look. From the beginning I totally left the idea to start from the top, just a long mixte extra exposed rampe. I Skied 50m direction west on the flat shoulder then the start looks super mega steep but definitely possible.

After 150m of steep with good pack powder I had to do a short 10m rappel (yellow sling on a becquet, right). After the short rappel the slope becomes a bit softer, a short dry ski moment head me to the big rampe, then the slope is 40 degree steep maximum and I can make big turn.

A little route mistake offer me 100m extra climb back to cross the face and ski a portion of 100m steep icy snow/grass.

Once out of the main difficulties I have to find the exit and don’t lose myself in an ice fall.

I did point a little forest I knew it will head me down to Elm. At low part of the forest is a nice little house, would be perfect after a steep ski day!

What a nice day in this big face. Last year it took me and Adelin hours to make it walking and skinning up from Flims, this year I did really enjoyed the cable car.


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